Remy (remi)/Cuticle Correct Hair – Remy hair is the best type to purchase for extensions. Unfortunately many companies today are calling their hair remy and it is not really remy. True remy hair has been carefully braided or tied before being cut from the donors head. This keeps all of the cuticles aligned, thus eliminating tangling and matting. The hair needs to be carefully handled through all coloring processes to keep the cuticle aligned. Real remy hair should last 3-4 months if it has been chemically textured or lightened to a level 6 or higher and 6 month or more if the color is level 5 or darker with no chemical texture.
Non-Remy/Fallen or Brushed Hair – This is the cheapest available and is not recommended for long term wear. Non-remy hair is collected from cutting room floors, brushes and anywhere else long hair can be found. It is then thrown in a vat of acid to wash away as much of the cuticle as possible to try to prevent tangling,(with no cuticle the hair swells terribly with washing and humidity). At this point coloring will take place. The hair is then put in a silicone bath to make it shiny and feel beautiful. The hair is then aligned and put into wefts, keratin tips or bulk. If a texture needs to be permed into the extensions more silicone will need to be added. Chinese is the best hair to go though the acid bath because of its strength. There are some companies who are very good at this process and can produce a product with minimum tangling. The trick for them is to get the entire cuticle off without the acid destroying the hair-any remaining cuticle will cause matting and tangling as soon as the silicone is washed away. If you are paying under $125 for 4oz of hair more than likely it is non-remy hair.
Single Drawn Hair – This hair has been placed in a pony tail or braid and then cut from the donor’s head. At this point the very shortest hairs are removed, (the shortest hairs are “drawn” out, hence the name single drawn). This leaves some hairs that are shorter than the full length giving it a slight tapered, layered look. This makes for easy blending and the most natural look. 95% of all real remy hair is single drawn. If you want a very thick bottom edge to your client’s hair order the extensions 2″-3″ longer and trim.
Double Drawn – This type of hair is all one length. There are no shorter hairs in the extensions like single drawn. All of the short hair has been “drawn” out. Most of the time double drawn hair is cheap and Non-Remy. Double drawn remy hair is very expensive because so much of the hair is discarded. Because of this very few companies have remy double drawn extensions. The advantage is you always get the length you want without it being too thin at the bottom. A disadvantage is unless you are an expert at cutting with a razor the hair can look doll like and rather fake.